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By admin, August 27, 2010 12:53 pm

QUESTION:

TM in Alabama asks: What can I do cheaply to make an electric car run faster?

ANSWER:

TM, I get asked that question several times a day!

First, understand that anytime you are seeking speed you will sacrifice torque. What your customers need to understand is speed comes in the form of a “system”.  As I write this, there are two main systems on the market (excluding AC drive). One is a Series system, and the other is called a Shunt, SepEx or Regen system. These two differing system types do not interchange and cannot be thought of exactly the same.

Series systems are the first generation of drive controls and have been around for many years.  The name Series means just what it implies, a system that is only as strong as its weakest link.  For example, if you have an open in the system such as: a cable, solenoid, motor, controller, shifter or a battery; the car will not run.  Likewise, if you have a component that is too small to carry a given load the car will not perform up to desired performance.  Here is how that works; first, you must have a power source (the batteries), they must be able to store the energy required for the demand the motor makes.  We must be able to deliver that stored energy through the correct size conductors (cables).  Then we have to be able to turn that delivery on and off with a contactor (solenoid) of the correct size.  Next we need a device to vary the amount of energy demanded by the motor.  This device is called a controller and has multiple amperage and throttle inputs.  With all that said, the motor is the one component that actually controls the speed and torque of the system.

The speed and torque of a motor is influenced by many factors:  large tires, hills, loads, and of course heat and cold.  Say that you have a motor rated at stock OEM specifications.  You replace that motor with a speed motor (higher RPM’s) and are driving the car in adverse conditions such as large hills.  The motor will not perform; as so much torque is lost it will not climb a hill.   To support this high speed motor you must have the rest of the system!

I recommend you ask customers the following questions when selling a system:

1. How is the car going to be used?
2. Are there large hills?
3. Is the car lifted? (larger tires)
4. Will the car be used for towing?
5. Will the car be using a rear facing seat?
6. Will the car be driven off-road, and to what extreme?
7. Will the car be driven on a flat surface?
8. Will the car be used for golf and community driving?
9. How much speed?  How much torque?

By asking a few questions you can determine if the customer needs a torque system, speed/torque system or a speed system.  You never want to put a speed system on a lifted car used for extreme off-roading.  You can use a torque/speed system in moderate off-road conditions.  Speed systems are for flat surfaces and paved roads.  Yes, a higher amperage controller will help speed motors some, and is required, but torque will still remain low.  Speed and torque costs, and to do it right, sell a customer a system. However there is always that on exception.  Say the customer has a non-lifted car and just wants a little added speed/torque.  Yes there are drop-in motors for the purpose and work very well.

Again, just by asking the correct questions you can sell the correct system or motor.  This will end part one; we will continue next issue.

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By admin, June 21, 2010 4:38 pm

QUESTION:

How do I connect a battery gauge?

Wayne From Villages, Florida

ANSWER:

First let’s talk about what those things are. Some call them charge indicators and some call them discharge meters. So which is it? The market offers two styles of meters to monitor battery voltage. One meter is digital and one is analog. The difference between the two is the analog is basically a voltmeter. The digital meter is more of a battery discharge indicator (BDI). However, during non-use (no load) the meter can tell battery pack charge. But its real value is reading discharge voltage to prevent over discharging the batteries. The value to this is we do not want the cell voltage during discharge to go beyond 1.70 volts per cell. That will be close to 80% discharge of the battery pack. Without monitoring the amount of discharge, damage to the batteries can occur. So, how do we connect the meters?

Analog or Digital will connect the same way. It has always been an industry standard to connect directly to hard positive and hard negative. What this means is connecting as close to the main battery car connections as possible. There are several good reasons for this. One reason is the activation wiring is usually too small and does not truly represent the power side of the system. So connecting to the small activation wiring is not as accurate as connecting directly to the battery pack. Another area of concern is connecting to the key switch. I do not recommend this at all! The reason being is the key switch has resistance. This resistance will give you a false reading. The other reason for not using the key switch is not all key switch circuits are positive voltage. If a key switch activation is desired I suggest utilizing a relay in that circuit. This will allow on/off of the meter if you want to do that. However, it is not necessary to turn the meter off. The draw on the batteries is so low it will not cause battery discharge.

Note: some digital meters do utilize a third connection for key switch activation. You can use this if it is indeed a positive circuit. Still connect the other two wires to hard positive and negative.

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By admin, April 20, 2010 8:51 pm

QUESTION:

How can I get more run time out of my ‘99 Club Car electric?

Don from Washington

ANSWER:

Assuming you have a 48-volt system you have a couple of options. One is to switch your battery pack to eight six-volt batteries. The other is to increase the capacity of the six eight-volt system.

The second option is to increase the capacity of the existing battery pack with exact size replacements. This means replace the six eight-volt T875’s with six T890’s. A T875 will have a rating of 117 minutes at 56 amps. A T890 will have a rating or 132 minutes at 56 amps.

To give you an exact amount of extra run time you will receive is hard to do based on motor size, tire size and car condition. Based on our testing with a six inch lift kit and 22″ tires, high speed and torque motor, and a rear facing seat. This is close to continuous duty driving. With a larger capacity battery system we see somewhere around an extra thirty minutes of run time. So you need to determine if the cost is worth it. As motor size and tire size decreases the amount of run time will increase. So as you can see application has a lot to do with all of this.

For a 36-volt system you will have a set of T105’s rated at 115 minutes at 75 amp load. You can upgrade to a set of T145’s rated at 145 minutes at 75 amp load. Upgrading the battery tray is not needed for the 36-volt system.

Things you can do to help run time are as follows:
1)         Run the correct tire pressure as per manufacturer recommendations
2)         Make sure there is not any mechanical binding or drag on the system
3)         Make sure the front wheel alignment is per manufacturers recommendations
4)         Make sure the batteries are being properly maintained and charged
5)         Make sure the motor system matches the application
6)         Make sure you never over discharge the battery pack beyond 80%
7)         Make sure the batteries are not being overheated during the charge process
8)         Make sure all of the cable connections are clean and tight

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By admin, April 1, 2010 8:56 pm

QUESTION:
We are trying to make an older Harley Davidson start and run. It is one of the older two cycle ones. Any input would be appreciated.
A.R. from Ohio

ANSWER:
My staff receives at least 30% of their calls on old two cycle engines, 60% on electric vehicles and the rest on miscellaneous and four cycle. The market still has plenty of those things left. Problem is all the old timers that worked on those things are far and few now. Dealers can still make money on them and customers will be happy you can keep their old jewel going!

So let’s look at the blasts from the past. Just like the present four cycle engine four things are required for the engine to start and run. By the way it is an engine not a motor! Starter/generators are motors. You must have Compression, Intake, Spark and Exhaust.

Within those parameters:
1) You must see a good flow of fuel to the carburetor. Free of water and old stale gas. You must have a carburetor free of dirt and debris internally (the ability to allow fuel into the intake for atomization).

2) You must have a good solid blue spark (not orange) and not intermittent. This spark must be able to jump a ¼” gap.

3) You must have 120 pounds of compression. Must maintain a minimum of 100psi. Note: you must have full throttle opening to read compression correctly.

4) The muffler must be free of carbon build up and loose baffling. Remove the muffler if you suspect carbon build up and see if the engine will start and run better without it.

5) The engine must be able to “turn over” at least 600 rpm’s (at too low of an rpm the spark will be low and intermittent or not at all). Low rpm will mean low compression. A throttle plate that will not open will create low compression. So be sure to check the relationship of solenoid closing, throttle opening and governor movement. The battery must maintain a minimum of 9.6 volts under load. If not there is a battery issue, connections issues, starter/generator issue, or wiring issues (such as poor grounding). There cannot be mechanical binding from engine components, clutch or other mechanical components that can add an unwanted load on the engine.

6) Check for vacuum leaks at the engine base gasket, crank case, carburetor mounting, reed plate, and carburetor hosing and engine crank shaft seals. Air leaks mean lean fuel to air ratio and the engine will not start or perform poorly.

7) Oil mix is 85:1 (1.5 oz oil to one gallon of gas). We recommend using good synthetic low rpm oil (golf cars are low rpm). Use at 100:1 and make sure it is a very clean oil to prevent carbon build up. High performance, high rpm oils are not a good idea as they are for high rpm engines.

For more information on this subject we have several pages of information in our FAQ section and will be glad to email that to you.

QUESTION:
How do I tell if my E-Z-GO 1995 is a PDS or DCS model?
M.K. from Texas

ANSWER:
First let’s correct a ½ year model misconception. TXT/Medalist are 1994.5 not 1994 so you fall in the 94.5 and up area. Also DCS systems where only around a short while (thankfully). Without going into serial numbers, year breaks and so on let’s look at a sure way you can tell. DCS systems utilize a shifter with a large round disc mounted on the back of it. Do not confuse this with a NON-DCS (series) system that also utilizes a shift lever (but has a metal rod connected to it). If you have a run/tow switch mounted on the black plastic controller cover and has a shift lever it is DCS. A DCS motor will not have speed sensing wires located on the motor end cap.

A PDS system utilizes a shifting rocker switch located in the dash. However, I have received reports of a lever being used on an early proto type production. So to know for sure you will have a run/tow switch located on the controller cover and speed sensor wires on the drive motor end cap.

The other sure fire way is the controller for DCS system is a 10 pin harness plug in. A PDS car has multiple harness pin connections to the controller.

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By admin, January 6, 2010 4:13 pm

QUESTION:
Gas or Electric, which is best for me?
Aaron - St.Louis, MO.

ANSWER:
If you are considering buying a golf car and require detailed information on whether it should be gasoline or electric powered, the following factors are points to consider in your decision making process:

Initial Cost: You can expect to pay more for a new gas car over a new electric car. The reason being gasoline powered cars have so many more moving parts than its electric counterpart. As gasoline powered cars age, you’re going to see the difference in price grow, because used gas cars become harder to find in really good condition (supply versus demand).

Performance: Gas and electric cars perform equally on flat or rolling terrain (stock cars). Gas cars have a slight edge climbing steep hills versus electric, except for the newer 48-volt electric cars which are equally peppy when combined with a performance motor upgrade. Electric cars do provide a smoother and quicker standing start. With the right motor and controller upgrade, 0 up to 30 MPH acceleration will be much quicker than a gas car.

Noise: Battery powered cars emit very little, if any noise when compared to gas powered cars. This is a great feature for hunters or folks that want to operate in stealth mode around camp grounds! New and late model gas powered cars, have become relatively quieter compared to older models due to improvements in air intake systems and the reduction of vibration in the transaxle, and clutches.

Maintenance Costs: Whether you have a gas or electric car, PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE is paramount to extending the life of your golf car. Electric cars require a minimal amount of maintenance due to the fact that they have so few moving parts. With a reasonable amount of care, a set of electric car batteries should last about five years with the ability to travel at least 30+ plus miles on a single charge, based on a flat surface (larger diameter wheels and hills will decrease the length of run time). Gas cars should be serviced at least annually to include changing the oil, oil filter (if your car has this feature), spark plug and air filter. Drive belt and starter generator belts may need to be replaced every two to three years. Also factored in would be a battery replacement, starter brushes and a drive clutch over the same 5 year period. Costs for a gas car over five years can cost more than an electric car. Electric cars include the cost of replacement for a set of six 6-volt batteries, distilled water and some baking soda for an occasional clean-up. (This does not include the labor costs for performing these services or the cost of gasoline, kilowatt-hours for charging or other items such as tires, cables, brakes or other items common to normal wear on both gas and electric cars.) While the overall costs are fairly close, you’re going to spend a lot more time “hands on” with your gas car (cleaning the carburetor, adjusting valves, etc.), as opposed to watering and cleaning your batteries with an electric car. One last note; the gas car costs makes the assumption that you have purchased a car with an engine which still has 5 good years left on it. Electric motors rarely ever require rebuilding, even after 10 years or more of service in most cars.

Operating Costs: The primary cost for gas powered cars is the retail price of gasoline and we all know what is happening to the price of gas. The primary cost for an electric car is the price of a kilowatt-hour of electricity; times the number of hours your car will charge. This average charge time is about 8 to 10 hours based on very heavy usage (80% discharge), but could be as low as 2 to 4 hours for lighter usage.

Pollution: In terms of environmental issues, electric cars are considered “zero emission vehicles”. Gas cars have undergone tremendous improvements in exhaust emission with the advent of the 4-cycle engine, but these engines do still contribute to our growing air quality problems. In fact, new gasoline powered golf cars have been illegal to sell in California for a number of years now.

Golf Car Body: The cowlings are of the same material composite for both gas and electric. All versions should be made from relatively resilient and unbreakable materials. Of course if you are one of those folks that could break a steel anvil with a rubber mallet, then unbreakable might not be the right word.

Golf Car Frame: Different brands use different structural frame material. Most use steel frames, however one manufacturer uses an aluminum frame. Some folks boast that aluminum does not rust, which is true. But aluminum will corrode or erode away in areas where high concentrations of acid are found, such as around the battery tray on both gas and electric cars. While aluminum is much lighter than steel, welding costs would be much higher should any repairs be required. Both materials work very well in these structural applications.

When making the purchase consider the following questions;

1)    Where and how will I be using the car?

2)    What accessories will I want to add?

3)    Will the car sit unused for long periods of time?

4)    What warranty options are there?

Of course, your own personal preference is the most important factor in choosing gas or electric.

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By admin, October 19, 2009 11:00 am

QUESTION:
How do I test a controller?
RM - Los Angeles, CA

ANSWER:
Another one of those questions without a quick easy answer. Everyone from a dealer to an end user wants that quick easy fix! What the industry has done for us is to create a system of easy testing, IF you have the proper test equipment. Test equipment such as programmers has been around for many years. The problem is the cost! Secondly one does not fit all. So, what is an individual to do? My staff and I field this question on a daily basis many times over! So I am going to give you some basic principles and testing without the use of high dollar programming equipment.

First understand a controller is part of a system and does not stand alone. Secondly understand testing is done in two directions. One I like to call the Known Factor and one I call the Unknown Factor. So with those thoughts in mind let’s use the following example.

•           What brand of car?
•           What type of system is in the car SepEx or Series?
•           What does the car do or not do?

Let’s say for this example we have a Club Car IQ system. The car does not run. What is the first action taken at this point?

This is where we start with known factors. First we retrieve the correct wiring diagram for that system. We know the car must have a voltage supply and that is the battery pack so we confirm proper voltage OCV and load voltage. Next we confirm we have conductors for the voltage to flow. In other words check all power cables, wiring and perform a good visual inspection.

Now we look at the Unknown Factors. What we do not know at this point is what does the solenoid do (does it click)? You do not go any further with trouble shooting until we determine what is going on with the solenoid.

Solenoid clicks but does not run. Check the main contacts for being open. If open, replace the solenoid. If the solenoid checks good then we go on to motor/controller testing. Keep in mind we are testing a system so we are testing everything around the controller at this point. Too often we just jump the gun and fail to follow procedure. Be patient and go step by step to each area of testing. Now we check the motor for continuity through F1 to F2 and A1 to A2 with one each of the cables removed. If we have continuity then we can say a circuit exists though the motor. So, at this point we have checked everything around the controller, so that leaves only one thing, a defective controller.

Going back to the solenoid, it does not click. First we determine if voltage is present across the small solenoid terminals. If we read 48 volts and the solenoid does not click, replace the solenoid. If you do not read voltage we have to determine where we are losing the voltage. Check voltage at the solid blue wire. Now we move our negative voltmeter lead to battery number six negative terminal and leave the red voltmeter lead connected to the small blue wire. Activate the system and if 48 volts is not read we have issues in the key switch, tow switch to battery positive circuit. If we read 48 volts then check for a negative potential on the blue wire with white stripe. Connect the black voltmeter lead to the blue wire with white stripe and move the red voltmeter lead to battery number one positive terminal. Activate the system and if 48 volts is not present we need to check voltage potentials at the controller inputs.

This is why it is important to have the correct wiring diagram for the car! Now we have to test in-put voltages to the controller. On this particular car system the computer has a lot to do with solenoid activation. Notice that the yellow wire from the computer is connected to the foot pedal switch and to the controller. This tells us we must see 48 volts positive at pin 6 on the controller at system activation. If you do not you have wiring issues, foot switch issues, key switch issues, tow switch issues or battery connection issues. This positive voltage must be seen in order for the controller to send out a negative input to the solenoid. You must also see voltage at the red computer wire, light blue, green/white wires to and from the computer (positive). If all is well then check input voltages at pin 6,10,8, and 9 on the controller (positive). Voltages present and no solenoid activation; replace the controller. Voltage not present; replace the computer or find where voltage to the computer/controller is missing. Also confirm POT (potentiometer/ITS) voltage or resistance values. At this point you have tested the system and can now determine if the controller is defective.

Plain and simple procedure without the use of high dollar test equipment!

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By admin, July 14, 2009 4:54 pm

QUESTION:

What about regular turn signals?

T.H. from Nebraska

ANSWER:

That is kind of a loaded question! Manufacturers vary so much with wire colors and it is very difficult to just say one fits them all. It seems a wire color standard is not observed in the golf car industry. So it is imperative that you have the correct diagram for the system you are working on.

With this said I have tried to keep our product as close to a repetitive color scheme as possible. Most turn signal heads are either a 4 or 8 wire design. The 4 wire design is used strictly for turn signals. The 8 wire is most widely used and will accommodate a brake light circuit. We will only talk about the 8 wire system.

The head consists of 6 positive circuits. They are LH turn front, RH turn front, LH turn rear, RH turn rear, indicator light, and brake lights.

The next step is to bring in battery positive to the flasher and to the turn signal head for proper distribution to each circuit. Notice the flasher has three connections. L is black wire load to the head. P is blue wire power to the head. X is battery positive from a 12-volt source. X is a red fused wire. Usually the red X wire is connected to the headlight on/off switch. Simply put, all this means is when moving the head lever left or right you are only diverting battery positive to each circuit!

Now here is where most people get confused. Battery negative pre-exists from the headlight circuit. The only negative circuit to the turn signal head is the white wire for the indicator light.

You must also separate the front marker lamps from the headlight circuit! Once separated the appropriate wire can be connected.

The rear lights must be a 3 wire design utilizing a double filament bulb.

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By admin, May 29, 2009 8:43 pm

QUESTION:
How do I test my batteries and help me understand them better?
WK - Carmel. Ind 

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By admin, May 14, 2009 5:25 pm

QUESTION:

Please explain the wire colors on an electric Precedent 12 pin connector under the dash.

N.B. from New York

ANSWER:

I get that question quite a bit. What confuses people is how the wire colors match up to the main headlight harness colors. They Do Not Match! This misconception tends to make things confusing. So to explain the colors and what they do, I have drawn you a pin out for the car half. This half is what connects to the headlight main harness and turn signal head.

However, most Precedent light kits are designed for plug and play. This alleviates the need for even needing to know the wire colors. Club Car Precedent models have a pre-existing dash to rear light harness.

The kit I designed for the Precedent models are #6441 premium electric, #6442 premium gas and economy versions #6195 electric and #6197 gas. I also added a few little extras to the kits such as a plug and play turn signal head (#6439) that has a horn button built in. Next, I added an extra 12 volt wire tap for the convenience of radio connection or other accessories. The next feature I added is a voltage converter plug and converter wiring adaptor (#6448). I also designed an electronic brake timer kit as well (6438). All of this added together makes it the most complete light kit on the market today. I hope this helps you understand the Precedent harness colors better.

#6198 Electric Main Harness (12 Pin Connector) and #6183 Gas Main Harness (9 Pin Connector)

#6438 Timer Kit

#6439 Turn Signal Head

NOTE: this is showing the pin connections in-line and does not reflect the actual 12 pin connector.

This is for numbering and color doing information only.

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By admin, March 14, 2009 6:24 pm

QUESTION:
I cannot get get my DE40 to run, it will do nothing? Batteries are good.
J.J. from West Virginia

Battery Pack

ANSWER:

Assuming your batteries are indeed good with a pack open circuit voltage of 38 volts or nominal 36 volts, we first must determine what the solenoids are doing.  Keep in mind this particular car (DE40) is wired differently than other systems. The solenoids are wired system negative in series through the B solenoid.  That means that an open anywhere in the B circuit will prevent all solenoids from activation.

Notice in this diagram that battery positive is applied to the forward solenoid power terminal.  From this terminal, battery positive is applied to the key switch.  By selecting either forward or reverse, positive is then applied to the appropriate solenoid.

For example, let’s say we have selected reverse.  Positive is then applied through the green wire to the reverse solenoid.  Positive now travels through the solenoid coil winding and out the white wire to the forward connection.  It will then continue on through the accelerator switch and to solenoid B.  Positive will then flow through the solenoid B coil windings and out to battery negative (black wire). 

Think of the solenoids being in series like a string of Christmas tree lights.  If the B solenoid is open, the other solenoids cannot activate.  If the accelerator switch is open, the solenoids cannot activate.  If the forward solenoid is open, reverse will activate when selected.  If the reverse solenoid is open, forward will activate when selected. 

This information will get you started, if you need further assistance let me know.

QUESTION:
What is a speed chip?
E.W. from Minnesota

#6163

ANSWER:

A speed chip is simply a jumper wire made for E-Z-GO Precision Drive Systems.  This is a red five gang Molex connector at J2 on the controller.  The wires jump out pin 2 to 3 and pin 1 to pin 5.  A gain of around 17 MPH is to be expected.  It is however, not advised to do this on lifted cars, as torque will be lost as a result.