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By admin, April 19, 2013 7:55 pm

Question: PA in Minnesota writes; I hear a lot about POTS, ITS, V-glide and all sorts of values, tell me what all that means?

According to Roger: What is meant by those short terms is “throttle inputs”. Car manufacturers use different inputs as part of what they feel best suits a control system they wish to use. Accelerator, linkage and location on the car can play part of why a particular throttle input is used. Pricing and Controller can play a part as to what input the manufacturer may use. So it is not some sort of part that is pulled off the shelf and put on a car (without thought going into it). Going one step further, we call the whole assembly an accelerator.
One POT (potentiometer) that is used and is most common through the years is a rotated shaft that moves across a carbon trace either in a clockwise or counter clock wise rotation. Most common resistance on this type of POT is a 0 to 5K or 5K to 0 wipe. Wipe just means the movement from beginning point to ending point based on accelerator pedal depression. A POT can have many resistance values so you must look at the manufacturers specifications to determine the POT value for the car it is being used on. So you can think of this type of POT as being a variable resistor that is mechanically activated.
ITS (Inductive Throttle Sensor) just means it is a voltage controlled input. Again, with this type you have to know the manufacturers voltage inputs before testing. There are different configurations of this Sensor so do not be fooled by how it looks. An Inductive Sensor does the same thing as a POT, except it uses voltage variances to change the speed of the car.
V-Glide (multi-step pot) is just another form of a resistive wipe (similar to a POT) but uses a set of resistors in series and uses a carbon based brush and copper contacts to vary a step by step resistor alignment for car speed. Again it can be either a 5K to 0 or 0 to 5K wipe. Some are a 2 wire circuit and some or a 3 wire circuit. The third wire on some systems is used to supply a negative to the assembly. Again, you must know what the manufacturer of the car is using.
Testing and trouble shooting POTS or ITS is just a matter of knowing value and having a VOM to test with. Purchase a good quality VOM (Volt/Ohmmeter) that has DC voltage ranges of 20 to 200 volts (DC). Resistances ranges of 200, 2000, 20K and 200K ranges (digital meters). Digital is a little easier to use than Analog but that is your choice. Just make sure the Analog meter has an RX100 scale. Some POTS are very difficult to connect to so it is advised purchasing a set of self penetrating clips as well. As the car market changes you will see more and more of a need for self penetrating test lead clips.
Having the correct input to a controller is very important. The logics of a controller can only operate based on the input it sees. As an example a customer may have a controller using a 7K to 1K POT input. A controller is mounted on a car that uses a 5K to 0 POT. The controller will sense that 5K potential and shut the car down. This is called high pedal detect and is a safety feature built into a controller. At 5K the controller sees a partial throttle condition (40% on). This particular controller has to see 6K to 7K for the controller logics to perform. Otherwise the system is shut down. We see this continually on our tech lines and returns. The market has produced many brands of controllers for speed and torque applications. This has expanded into a lot of stock control systems to speed and torque replacements. Doing so does create problems for technicians that did not do the installation. The installer sometimes may change a POT input to match whatever controller he may have in stock to get the install completed. So do not trust what was done before you as sometimes what the manufacturer actually put into the car may not be there now. This has become quite common so pay close attention to exactly what system is being used in the car. Test first, and than order is my suggestion for getting the correct part you may need to order. Freight back and forth in todays world can be expensive. If you need further assistance feel free to email me for testing procedures for your car.

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By admin,

QUESTION: A.N. from Nebraska writes: You talk a lot about double solendoids on electric cars but nothing on gas cars that have the old 5306 key switch that never works. What can I do to replace that key switch, it keeps falling apart and I am frustrated with it?

ANSWER: The power circuit is battery positive to normally open side of solenoids. Selecting either solenoid 1 or 2 allows positive to flow out the jumper to F2 or F1 depending on forward or reverse mode. Let’s say for now we have selected solenoid 1.  Then based on that selection positive will flow out the orange cable to F2 and through the fields and out F1 to normally closed contacts on solenoid 2. Positive then flows through the cable to F2 and through the fields and out F1 to normally closed contacts on solenoid 2. Positive then flows through blue cable to A2 and through the armature to A1 ground. You just reverse the flow selecting solenoid 2.  NOTE: Wire colors vary as this is only guide.
You may choose what wire colors you wish to use. The sequence is all that matters.

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By admin, November 12, 2012 1:46 pm

QUESTION:
UA from NJ writes: Explain what a clutch puller is

ANSWER:
On golf cars it is a devise with a hex head shaft with a threaded area for inserting into a matching threaded hole on the clutch. Notice on the sample clutch pullers all of them have several things in common. All of them have a hex for socket turning, recessed shaft, and a threaded area.

It is that threaded area you have to pay attention to when ordering a clutch puller. Thread pitch size varies from manufacturer to aftermarket designs. You will see anything from a fractional pitch of 20 to metric pitch of 1.00 mm. That puller pitch has to match the same thread pitch that is inside the clutch pulling area. If you look at the 5700 clutch shown below, notice on the end there is a hollow threaded area for the puller. On golf cars that threaded area exists after you remove the mounting bolt. On some models you have to pull the dust cover to access the mounting bolt (picture 9035). Next you should put a dab of grease on the end of the recessed puller tip. This does two things as it adds lubrication and most of all you cannot compress a liquid. Understand you are literally pushing the clutch off the crankshaft. When turning the hex head with a socket again you have to pay attention to the puller thread sizing. On small thread size pullers do not use an impact for clutch removal! If you break that puller you are in for a total nightmare to get that clutch off. You can only apply 40 to 45 foot pounds of torque on the small ones.

You should always test the threaded area to make sure there is not any damage the threads. Sometimes it is wise to “run” a tap through the clutch threads. Over time the threads can rust or corrode from the elements. If you do not have tap sizes you should purchase those from any tool supply warehouse. One old saying is “use the right tool for the job being performed”.

There is a difference from O.E.M. to aftermarket clutches and pullers. Just by saying you have a1999 model whatever, how do you know that car still has the O.E.M. clutch? You have to physically look and measure to make sure of what you actually have. Aftermarket clutches for the most part do not have the same thread size as O.E.M. Model, serial number and MFG codes are only the start of the process. Again, it is like ordering a tie rod end. How do you know you need a LH end or RH end. Yep, you have to look. Clutches have fallen under the same category as, motors, controllers and other aftermarket parts. You just cannot order those types of parts based on model, serial number or MFG code alone. You have to look first then order.

Professional golf car repair centers understand all this and if you need assistance they will be glad to help you.

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By admin, September 12, 2012 3:16 pm

QUESTION:
B.H. from Ohio writes; What is a quick way to check the starter circuit on a gas Club Car

ANSWER:
I assume you mean the engine is not turning over. I do not like in this format to just throw out a quick “this is what you do”. I like to take the time to fully explain things so in the event the “quick way” did not work. It is best to understand what is in the circuit and recognize how each component in the circuit works. This gives you a much clearer view of where to look sort of thing.

The starter system consists of the Battery, Conductors, Solenoid, Starter/Generator for the Power Circuit (Secondary). The Activation Circuit (Primary) consists of a Fuse, Conductors, Key Switch, Start Switch, and Neutral Lock Switch. You have to start trouble shooting with the Battery. Load test the battery and make sure it can maintain above 9.6 volts under load (A). If it does not check the cable connections and battery condition. Next check all the cable connections for proper connections and proper grounding. Check the Starter/Generator armature and field connections. Meaning remove A1/A2 connections and F1/F2 connections. Place an ohmmeter (low ohms) across A1 to A2 and you should read continuity. From F1 to F2 you should read continuity. If reading “open” than check the brushes, field windings and armature. Check each Starter/Generator terminal to ground (G) (low ohms). Each terminal should be free of a grounded condition. Any opens or grounds remove Starter/Generator motor for further testing and repair.

Primary circuit testing is just as simple. Understand that battery positive is applied through a fuse to the key switch (B). From the key switch battery positive is applied to the solenoid (D). Confirm that voltage is present. Battery negative (ground) is applied to the Solenoid from Neutral Lock Out Switch, and Start Switch (G). Confirm the Neutral Lock Out Switch is grounded and does activate NC (Normally Closed) and NO (Normally Open) contact positions. Same applies to the Start Switch make sure it activates from COM (Common) to NO (Normally Open) terminals. It is all about confirming voltage at each point, that simple.

Tech Tip: Specialty tools for the job.

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By admin, July 5, 2012 3:50 pm

QUESTION: Roger what do you mean when you say “check voltage across the solenoid”? Voltage across battery? This confuses me..VA from NE

ANSWER: Sorry to confuse you and all this means is just what I am implying. You are literally testing voltage across a given point. Example is the solenoid. Typically you have four connection points. Two connections are for activation (primary) and two are for power circuit (secondary). So when I say I want you to check across the activation terminals (small terminals) I mean connect the black voltmeter wire lead to the small terminal negative input. Connect the red voltmeter lead to the small solenoid positive terminal. Meaning across the two terminals.

Why we do this is to see if we have both potentials present at the time of solenoid activation. If both potentials are present and the solenoid does not “click” the solenoid coil is open (replace solenoid). It is just that simple. If we do not read both potentials we are missing one and we have to find out which one is missing. At the same time you will not connect across the secondary (power circuit) as that will be a like potential (usually positive). So talking about “across” means a component that has two potentials present not one. A battery has two potentials, solenoid, light, coil, relay, horn, converter, and so on.

Connecting to just one terminal is checking only one potential. Meaning you have to find the other potential somewhere else such as battery negative or battery positive.

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By admin, May 3, 2012 5:54 pm

QUESTION: TM from CAL Writes: I hear you talk a lot Part Number 30931 Auto-Timer can it be made to work on the car? DC Nevada

ANSWER: DC, this being a new product it takes time to finish completely. We have several reports of this unit working well on the charger itself. The 30930 36-volt version is a good alternative for 36-volt ferro-resonant chagers. So don’t forget there are two versions 36-volt and 48-volt.

I had so many requests for the 30931 to work on the car so I finally took the time to do that.

Procedure: Leave on-board computer where it is. Disconnect the main negative 48-volt negative twelve gauge lead wire going to the computer. Cut this wire close to the computer and move the wire to battery number six negative terminal or battery number four if you have a four 12-volt arrangment. Choose an area on the front of rear body leg area. Using supplied template mount the AT (auto-timer). Replace the key switch with a on-off-on double throw style switch. We found that part number 2690 works well by cutting dash hole large enough for mounting. Or you can use any kind of aftermarket switch that has the correct configuration. This works with key in the center position plug the charger in. Then turn key to left position and after a time delay the charger will begin. When complete the timer will shut off indication of a green light. Unplug charger turn key to full right the car is in run position and timer is disconnected.

Nothing else needs to be done to the computer as long as the car runs. If it does not run, we have by pass wiring for that as well. Below is the wiring configuration for the install.

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By admin, February 23, 2012 2:28 pm

Question:

TM from CAL Writes: I hear you talk a lot about drive systems and how do I tell what system is in my E-Z-GO car?

Answer:

Determining if you car’s drive system is Regenerative /Dynamic Braking or Series is not that difficult. Regenerative/Dynamic Braking simply means the car’s system is called a SepEx system. The motor utilizes a separately excited field. Reversing direction of the motor on SepEx systems is done internally inside the controller with the use of a rocker switch. In a Series system, the motor fields are in series with the armature. Reversing the motor direction on Series systems is obtained by means of a large forward/reverse shifting switch/lever mounted on the front of the rear body. Series motors and controllers will not interchange with SepEx motors and controllers! That is why it is very important to identify what system your particular car utilizes. Pay close attention to the year and identity chart, as there are exceptions to rocker switch or lever switch reversing.

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By admin, December 28, 2011 4:40 pm

QUESTION: BW Writes; What is the testing procedure for Club Car computers?

ANSWER: First it must be determined what issue is seen:
1) Will Not Charge
2) Charges But Car Will Not Run
3) Charges But Will Not Shut Off
4) Charger Will Not Work On A Different Car
5) Working Charger Will Not Work On Specific Car

System #1:
Re-boot Computer first and confirm battery pack voltage is above 41 volts. The Computer is voltage sensitive and must see battery pack voltage to activate system.
Rebooting consists of battery disconnection per manufacturers procedure. If the car utilizes a run/tow switch you must place the car in tow position before disconnecting any batteries. For cars that have a Regenerative One system (first generation) the key switch is utilized as run/tow. For all 1995 and up Series cars place car in neutral, key off and disconnect battery number six negative cable and any accessory wires that may be connected to that terminal. Lay the cable and or wires aside as not to touch the frame of any other wiring! Turn key switch on and place shifter into reverse. Hold the accelerator pedal at about 1/3rd down until back up buzzer softens or stops. Repeat accelerator pedal up and down several times until you see that. Then reconnect all wires and cable onto number six battery negative terminal. Note you may see a small arc as you make this connection this is just the capacitor bank inside the controller being charged. In the event the back up buzzer does not function simply discharge the controller. With batteries disconnected short out B+ to B- on the controller it will arc loudly so do not be alarmed (series systems only). After the cables and wires have been connected you have now re-booted. All regenerative systems will be a little different you have to remember turning run/tow switch on before putting car in reverse and then remember to turn run/tow back off before connecting number six or number four battery (if it have a four battery arrangement instead of six).
After you have competed this try to first drive the car. Then try to charge the batteries once again. If all is well the re-boot took care of the lock out. If the car still does not run or runs but will not charge we move on the next level.
Will not charge but does run:

1)    Make sure the AC cord is receiving voltage (test for AC voltage)
2)    Make sure you have DC voltage at the cars charging  receptacle (positive only) (negative not seen)
3)    Make sure you have battery negative voltage at the yel low sense lead fuse and to the charger relay
4)    Make sure the charger relay “clicks” if not confirm 48-volts positive and negative on the relay coil
5)    48-volts present on the relay coil and does not “click” the relay is defective
6)    Missing negative from the computer or blue sense lead wire on charger cord it is open. Meaning the blue wire can be broken inside the DC cord and usually breaks at the handle plug end from up and down movement. If missing negative from gray sense lead wire on car half replace the computer.
7)    All voltage present and relay “clicks” and does not charge, check DC battery connections on the car and confirm they are not broken, corroded or connected to wrong area. If all connections and wiring is good then the computer rectifier is defective replace the computer. Note: just because the relay “clicks” it does not mean it is good, the main contacts can be open so test that.
8)    If the charger will not shut off it means either the relay contacts or stuck in the closed position or the computer is defective. Technical Note: This system will not shut off if there is a defective battery (batteries) in the system. You must confirm you have a good working set of batteries.

System #2:
Car Will Not Run:
1)    Car will not run. Does the solenoid “click”?
2)    Solenoid does not “click” we have either a “lock out” from computer, controller, solenoid or wiring issue
3)    First determine if we have a “lock out” from compute Re-boot as per System #1.
4)    Still have “lock out” and will not charge follow System #1 testing.

Follow the following by-pass procedures:
1)    For series systems remove yellow solenoid wire from solenoid. Tape the end of this yellow wire so it does not touch anything. Place a jumper wire from battery negative to the vacated solenoid terminal. Activate the system (meaning key on, in forward and accelerator pushed). The car should now run and if it does and the car will charge add a 10 fuse to a 18 gauge wire and place this wire and fuse to the vacated solenoid terminal and to a battery negative connection. At this point computer replacement is not necessary. However, if you wish to retain the “lock out” function you must replace the computer.
2)    If the car does not run (no solenoid “click”) you have a car wiring issue, follow car wiring diagram to locate issue. Or (solenoid does “click” you have a drive control system issue such as controller, motor, shifter, solenoid or cables and wiring. Do not confuse solenoid activation with computer “lock out” it is two separate things.
To by-pass “lock out” on other computer system (SepEx) you must know exactly what drive system is in the car i.e. Regen 1, Regen 2, IQ, IQ+ or what ever. Each uses “lock out” differently then the standard series system. Notice on the series system negative “lock out” is used. Some of the SepEx “lock out” is based on positive voltages. So make sure of exactly what you have before doing anything. At this point do not and I mean DO not jump any solenoids activation terminals without removing the main negative solenoid wire! Failure to do so can destroy a controller or computer!
A)    Regenerative System 1 (first generation) connect a negative 18 gauge wire with a bullet connector going into the Z plug pin number 12 yellow wire. This will by-pass computer input to the controller. If the car runs and charges add a 10 amp fuse and leave it that way. If you wish to have the “lock out” feature you must replace the computer.
B)    Regenerative System 2 (Power Drive Plus) connect yellow, blue and white wires together on the car side of the on-board computer harness. These are all positive connections. If the car runs and charges with the applied positive add a 10 amp fuse and leave connected as a by-pass. If you wish to have the “lock out ” feature replace the computer.
C)    IQ System cut the light blue wire at pin number 5 on the 16 pin controller connector. Connect a 18 gauge wire from the light blue wire going to the 16 pin connector and route the other end to battery positive at the solenoid large terminal (from battery number one) or the back of charging receptacle red positive terminal. Tape the light blue wire going to the computer. If the car runs and charges install 10 amp fuse in the jumper and leave it that way. If you wish to retain “lock out” replace the computer.
Always advise your customer that any type of by-pass does remove the “lock out” function. This by-pass is a way of testing to see if it is a computer issue or controller issue. Of course you can allow just confirm the voltages with a voltmeter if you understand the voltage pin-outs. Knowing the voltage pin-outs you must have the correct wiring diagram for the system being tested.

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By admin, October 21, 2011 1:47 pm

Question:
How do I adjust the brakes on a Club Car

Bob from CA

Answer:
Before doing anything please take a moment to act on safety! Always wear eye protection.

1995 Newer Auto- Adjusting Brake Adjustment Process

While these brakes are considered “self-adjusting”, they do require some attention in order to maintain their performance.

Rule #1 – NEVER adjust the brake cables tighter in order to improve the pedal travel. While cable adjustment may occasionally be necessary, save this step for the last.

If your brake cables have been tightened up previously, loosen the cables under the car just enough that you know that the rear brake levers (which the cables pull on at the rear wheels) are able to return completely to their rear most position. If the cables and the rear brake levers won’t return to the rear most position on their own, the cable may me corroded or worn and should be replaced.

Then sitting stationary, push down on the brake pedal with both feet really hard and you will hear a click at the rear of the car. Keep doing this (pumping the pedal) until the clicking stops. Then adjust the cables just tight enough that they hold the car securely on a hill when the park brake is on the second notch.

Old Style Club Cars

Disconnect the battery or battery pack, use proper lifting equipment and proper jack stands for supporting the car. Some electric cars will have a Run/Tow switch and this switch must be moved to the Tow position before disconnecting the battery pack. At this point lift the rear of the car and place the jack stands in a secure spot that will support the car. The following steps will allow for optimal adjustment.

1) Remove both wheel assemblies.

2) Release the brake pedal parking brake.

3) Back off the brake cable adjusting rod so there is not any cable tension on the shoe lever arm.

4) Remove the brake drum, it make be necessary to remove keeper clips on the wheel studs on some models. It may be necessary on some units to back off the brake adjuster in order for the drum to be removed. Some units use an axle nut that holds the drum in place, with this style retain the cotter pin for use later.

5) Now that the shoe and backing plate is exposed, inspect the shoes for wear, sticking, debris or poor fitting to drum. At this point wear some sort of respiratory devise to protect your lungs from foreign debris. With light air pressure blow the brake dust and debris from the shoes and backing plate. Clean the drum in the same manner. You can also use a cleaning solution such as CRC Brake Clean. Again do not directly breathe the solution!

6) Now that things are clean and no binding or sticking is noticed in the shoe movement we can move to the adjustment. For self adjusting brakes the drum should slide on and turn freely with out any resistance. If it is too tight take the drum back off and back off the star adjuster until the drum is free to turn 360 degrees without dragging to a stop.

From this point on the shoe will self adjust under normal operating conditions. Likewise if the drum is too loose you will need to tighten the shoes to a drag and than back off to free movement. For manually adjusted shoes put the drum back on the axle. Turn the adjusting screw or star until the drum locks up. At this point back the adjuster off three to five “clicks” and at this point the drum should turn freely.

7) Put the tires back on and torque the lugs to 50 foot pounds.

Now we need to adjust the brake pedal height (do not confuse this with brake shoe adjusting), as you push on the pedal you should feel 2 or 3 “clicks” or ¾ to 1″ free play. If you do not see this amount of travel adjust the cable adjusting rod that you released in step #3. Connect the battery or batteries. Place the car in Run position (if required).

9) Place the car on the ground and test drive in a safe area. You are finished if no problems exist. If problems exist repeat the above procedure, you missed something.

10) Make sure ever thing is tight and in place before normal usage.

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By admin, August 26, 2011 3:11 pm

I will not show a name or state on this question as requested. The term Dealership means many different things to different people and how we get there is hard to do! You must consider many things from financing to family. Just to hang a sign out in front of a building means very little. I am in a unique position as I talk to Dealers world wide and hear a lot of the pain they go through as well as the fun side of things. Believe me it is very rewarding to have your own business and be able to serve the general public, your way! Having the satisfaction for that brief moment in time to solve a customers needs is very rewarding to say the least. Those needs can be anything from a new car to something as simple as a spark plug. Bottom line is you filled some ones need and you did it professionally and with prompt good quality service. Following are a few suggestions to consider before making the plunge.

1) Know your local and state ordinances concerning owning and operating your business.

2) Understand paying your taxes (suggested quarterly).

3) Understand office supplies such as phones, internet, faxes, paper supply, filing, computers, billing, desks, chairs, restrooms, or anything that is related to an office space.

4) Banking and accounting.

5) How much space do you need (square foot). Include it all, office and work area.

6) What market am I in, gas or electric? Understand what your customers are going to be looking for.

7) Show room is a must, so make sure you have space for that.

Parts window/service window for customers to approach and ask for assistance.

9) This is huge and most people overlook this,

accessibility, this is very important.

10) Professional look to building and services. First impression says it all!

11) Car cleaning area, this is a must.

12) Storage for cars, parts, racking and miscellaneous product.

13) Loading and unloading car area or dock.

14) Does the area land lock you from driving and testing cars or growth?

15) Insurance, health, after the job completion, on the premise, building, cars, customers etc…..

16) Tools and equipment, service truck, delivery truck.

17) Locate a car supplier.

18) Rental fleet, room to put them.

19) What is the area labor rate, will you be competitive and be able to support sales with it.

20) Have a base business don’t get to big to fast! Crawl before you walk. Don’t mix with other lines of business stay with what you are doing golf cars. Be specialized in golf cars, talk golf cars and know that product.

The big thing to all of this is, it is a must you have some sort of technical training or experience background. Today’s golf cars especially the electric cars can be very complicated if you do not have an understanding of DC voltage, reading schematics, and trouble shooting solid state controls. Be willing to take time to have training in this area before even beginning to open you business. Understand you will need to purchase the proper testing equipment and tools required. Lack of proper equipment or technical knowledge will frustrate you and your customers to no end. So be prepared to do the job first. Understand this is a family decision that will affect your family! Know that you will work unbelievable hours for the first year or two to get things off the ground. Up front fall back money is a good thing to have for the unforeseen emergencies that may arise. Don’t go into this thinking a whole bunch of money is going to fall into your lap. You have to earn it, prove yourself to the community, and have firm commitment to the task. As with any business there will be peaks and valleys but the reward of owning you own business is worth the sacrifice. I wish you well in your venture.