QUESTION:
We are trying to make an older Harley Davidson start and run. It is one of the older two cycle ones. Any input would be appreciated.
A.R. from Ohio
ANSWER:
My staff receives at least 30% of their calls on old two cycle engines, 60% on electric vehicles and the rest on miscellaneous and four cycle. The market still has plenty of those things left. Problem is all the old timers that worked on those things are far and few now. Dealers can still make money on them and customers will be happy you can keep their old jewel going!
So let’s look at the blasts from the past. Just like the present four cycle engine four things are required for the engine to start and run. By the way it is an engine not a motor! Starter/generators are motors. You must have Compression, Intake, Spark and Exhaust.
Within those parameters:
1) You must see a good flow of fuel to the carburetor. Free of water and old stale gas. You must have a carburetor free of dirt and debris internally (the ability to allow fuel into the intake for atomization).
2) You must have a good solid blue spark (not orange) and not intermittent. This spark must be able to jump a ¼” gap.
3) You must have 120 pounds of compression. Must maintain a minimum of 100psi. Note: you must have full throttle opening to read compression correctly.
4) The muffler must be free of carbon build up and loose baffling. Remove the muffler if you suspect carbon build up and see if the engine will start and run better without it.
5) The engine must be able to “turn over” at least 600 rpm’s (at too low of an rpm the spark will be low and intermittent or not at all). Low rpm will mean low compression. A throttle plate that will not open will create low compression. So be sure to check the relationship of solenoid closing, throttle opening and governor movement. The battery must maintain a minimum of 9.6 volts under load. If not there is a battery issue, connections issues, starter/generator issue, or wiring issues (such as poor grounding). There cannot be mechanical binding from engine components, clutch or other mechanical components that can add an unwanted load on the engine.
6) Check for vacuum leaks at the engine base gasket, crank case, carburetor mounting, reed plate, and carburetor hosing and engine crank shaft seals. Air leaks mean lean fuel to air ratio and the engine will not start or perform poorly.
7) Oil mix is 85:1 (1.5 oz oil to one gallon of gas). We recommend using good synthetic low rpm oil (golf cars are low rpm). Use at 100:1 and make sure it is a very clean oil to prevent carbon build up. High performance, high rpm oils are not a good idea as they are for high rpm engines.
For more information on this subject we have several pages of information in our FAQ section and will be glad to email that to you.
QUESTION:
How do I tell if my E-Z-GO 1995 is a PDS or DCS model?
M.K. from Texas
ANSWER:
First let’s correct a ½ year model misconception. TXT/Medalist are 1994.5 not 1994 so you fall in the 94.5 and up area. Also DCS systems where only around a short while (thankfully). Without going into serial numbers, year breaks and so on let’s look at a sure way you can tell. DCS systems utilize a shifter with a large round disc mounted on the back of it. Do not confuse this with a NON-DCS (series) system that also utilizes a shift lever (but has a metal rod connected to it). If you have a run/tow switch mounted on the black plastic controller cover and has a shift lever it is DCS. A DCS motor will not have speed sensing wires located on the motor end cap.
A PDS system utilizes a shifting rocker switch located in the dash. However, I have received reports of a lever being used on an early proto type production. So to know for sure you will have a run/tow switch located on the controller cover and speed sensor wires on the drive motor end cap.
The other sure fire way is the controller for DCS system is a 10 pin harness plug in. A PDS car has multiple harness pin connections to the controller.
